Monday, 27 September 2010
In Sept 2010, a BMG/UIAGM guide without consultation, stripped away a long standing safety feature from a notorious mountaineering black-spot near the summit of Ben Nevis at the Tower Gap on the climb, Tower Ridge. He maintained that the safety feature (belay) was an eyesore on the mountain and unnecessary. It turns out, that on the opposite side of the mountain, the same guide, Mike Pescod, has been placing expansion bolts (against the wishes of the vast majority of UK climbers) in order to facilitate taking his clients on canyoning expeditions and no doubt, to facilitate winter ascents of - Five Finger Gully. The bolts if nothing else, are just as unsightly as any other climbing material left behind on a mountain. That for decades, 'official' mountain guides have festooned some of the most beautiful mountains of the world with unsightly; unnecessary fixed-equipment. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=424956
Thursday, 5 November 2009
Safety Information for Mountain Clients
http://www.mountain-clients.org.uk/
Since 1997, the number of fatal accidents to mountain clients; people who use the services of 'qualified'; so called, 'official' mountain guides has dropped dramatically. In 1997, after another fatal accident on the West Flank of the Eiger (became public knowledge) when three clients climbing with the aptly named: Survival Club, were killed (Phillip Davies died 16 days later in hospital in his mothers arms) advertising by the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) was removed from the pages of High Magazine (sponsored by the British Moutaineering Council) by the Advertising Standards Authority. The advert had been offering: Guarantees of safety; your safety is guaranteed and yet, numerous clients of the (BMG) died. Their guides, invariably, survived. http://www.mountain-clients.org.uk/links
The picture on main-land Europe is not so good. Apparently, eleven mountain guides and numerous clients have been killed since November, 2008. There must be much soul-searching amongst the members of the UIAGM / IFMGA International Guides Association; the alpine cartel, at this time.
Since 1997, the number of fatal accidents to mountain clients; people who use the services of 'qualified'; so called, 'official' mountain guides has dropped dramatically. In 1997, after another fatal accident on the West Flank of the Eiger (became public knowledge) when three clients climbing with the aptly named: Survival Club, were killed (Phillip Davies died 16 days later in hospital in his mothers arms) advertising by the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) was removed from the pages of High Magazine (sponsored by the British Moutaineering Council) by the Advertising Standards Authority. The advert had been offering: Guarantees of safety; your safety is guaranteed and yet, numerous clients of the (BMG) died. Their guides, invariably, survived. http://www.mountain-clients.org.uk/links
The picture on main-land Europe is not so good. Apparently, eleven mountain guides and numerous clients have been killed since November, 2008. There must be much soul-searching amongst the members of the UIAGM / IFMGA International Guides Association; the alpine cartel, at this time.
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